Symphonic Sydney

We arrived in Sydney Wednesday evening. After checking in to our serviced apartment we hit the streets to wander downtown and find somewhere to eat dinner. Eventually we ended up dining at a local pub with cheap food provided you purchase a drink. Tired from travel we returned and called it an early night.

Thursday morning we made our way back downtown to Darling Harbour to find the visitors’ center and make tour arrangements for the following days. Afterwards we took the bus to the famous Bondi Beach (known world-wide for surfing and shark attacks). The beach was gorgeous but the water was much cooler than the water in Cairns. We sat at a café along the beach and had coffee and then shopped a bit. Unfortunately we did not spot any great whites; however, we did see a few surfers. During our return bus trip from Bondi, Mike overheard Texan accents behind us and started chatting with a couple and their children from the Dallas area. We learned that they were visiting from China, where he curently works for Nokia, and had just recently sold their house in Texas. We gave them updates on the economy back home and they traded us some good Sydney travel advice and tips before they pointed us in the direction of the ferry where we bid them farewell. We jumped off the bus at Circular Quay and hopped the ferry over to Manly, a town across the harbour. Our arrival at Manly was just past sunset as we rushed to view their impressive surf beach. Manly’s waves were actually larger than the waves at Bondi, but much harder to see at twilight. After strolling along the beach we searched for a spot on the drag to have dinner. We came upon a Brazilian BBQ restaurant named Brazuca and decided to give it a try. The food and service were awesome and Mike let them know that it was our best meal yet in Australia (service in Australia was not as good as New Zealand, but maybe we were just spoiled). Following dinner we had a romantic ferry ride back to Sydney where could view the lit up harbour bridge and opera house. During the ride lazy gulls were gliding alongside the ferry on the breeze.

Friday, against advice, we spent the first half of the day visiting the Sydney Aquarium and Wildlife World. While at the wildlife world Mike made friends with a parrot who gave him a friendly nip. We enjoyed walking through their bird sanctuary where the birds fly about freely, and the butterfly sanctuary where the butterlifes were landing on people’s heads. Mike even patted a huge water python that attempted to crawl up his arm. We were a bit disappointed with the aquarium because we tried three different times to view the platypus but every time we checked the exhibit they were in hiding. We did however get to see two Australian Dugongs, which is akin to our American manatee, several sharks, and a huge stingray. We felt a tinge of sorrow for the great sea turles and other barrier reef fish while viewing that exhibit. Seeing them in their natural habitat is much more spectacular than viewing them on display in an aquarium. Next we wandered up to see The Rocks, an historic area where the first settlers built their homes upon the rocks. Also, it is an area with many historic pubs and some good shopping opportunities.

Later that evening we had dinner at Nick’s seafood restaurant in Darling Harbor based upon a recommendation from the fellow Texans. I had snapper while Mike tried kangaroo. He ate about half of his kangaroo steak before he quit and decided that the kangaroos seemed much more intelligent than cows and he just didn’t want to eat them. He said they were much more fun to pet and to watch than to eat. After dinner we made our way to the grand Sydney Opera House to hear the Sydney symphony perform works by Beethoven, Hayden and Bartok. Hearing a performance inside of the opera house was an awe inspiring experience. The section we were in was smaller inside than Mike expected, but the Opera house actually has many different areas and we were only in one small section. The architecture and design allows for amazing acoustics and there didn't appear to be a bad seat in the house.

Early Saturday morning we took a tour to view the spectacular Blue Mountains. Actually foothills, not mountains, they are called the Blue Mountains because of the blue haze given off by the abundant eucalyptus trees. On our way we stopped off in Blacktown at the Featherdale Wildlife Park which was the best wildlife experience yet. While at Featherdale they allow many of the animals to wander about freely and they are all friendly because many of them are rescued animals and accustomed to people. We had curious wallabies follow us through the park and were able to hand feed wallabies, kangaroos, and emus. Pudgy wombats gladly rolled on the ground and enjoyed a good back scratch, bicycling their legs similar to dogs if you scratched them just right. We were forewarned to not put our hands near their mouths because they might give a friendly nip and don’t know the strength of their own mouths, but nothing like that occurred. Mike even had a snake draped over his neck for a photo, but I declined the opportunity. We were unable to actually cuddle koalas because it is now illegal in New South Wales, but we both were able to get up next to koalas perched in trees and scratch them on their backs. Following the wildlife park we continued our journey to the Blue Mountains, but first we stopped at a local reserve to have morning tea and learn to properly throw boomerangs. Once we were up at the Blue Mountains we stopped and took a hike to a beautiful cliff overlooking the Jamieson Valley, their equivalent of the Grand Canyon; however, the valley was filled with trees and wildlife unlike the barren Grand Canyon. The sandstone cliffs were amazing to view and we caught our first glimpse of the three rock formation known as the Three Sisters. Next we continued our journey to a park called Scenic World where we rode a cable car over a cliff, walked a loop through an ancient rainforest, saw the remains of an old coal mine, and then rode the steepest railway in the southern hemisphere back up to meet our group. Along our trek home we drove through the 2000 Olympic site including the aquatic center which they turned into public swimming pools. We rode the rivercat ferry back to the city to avoid traffic on the road. Once we arrived back at Circular Quay we hopped a ferry back over to Manly again. This time we wanted to see the beach before sunset. Upon arrival at Manly we hurriedly walked to the beach and pulled off our shoes. We had to walk carefully through the sand because high tide had brought in many blue jellies along with washing up hundreds of small dead puffer fish (we think maybe the birds hunt them there). Surfers continued to attempt to catch the perfect wave as we watched sunset over the beach. Later we washed the sand off our feet and then ate dinner at a restaurant along the boardwalk.

Sunday we had limited time before our flight but still had more spots in Sydney that we wanted to see before we left. Our final excursion we took the train to Circular Quay and then walked along the botanical gardens from the Opera House to Mrs. Macquaries Point to get the perfect shot with both the Opera House and the Harbor Bridge in the background. We only had time to see the outskirts of the gardens, but they were spectacular. We watched native birds walk through the park waiting for crumbs from visitors and were amazed to see wild golden-crested cockatoos flying throughout the trees squawking at each other. The park had towering fig trees and huge palm trees everywhere. After reaching the point and taking a few lucky pics, we caught a cab to the airport to begin our long journey home.

Cairns and the Coral Sea

We arrived in Cairnes, pronounced “Cannes” by the locals, on Friday afternoon. After arriving at our resort and settling in we took a cab to the main drag downtown, the Esplanade. The area was bustling with tourists on holiday and many eager vendors. We noticed that shops in Cairnes stay open much later (some 24 hours) than in NZ where they all closed around 6 p.m. While wandering the streets we noticed a commotion across the street near the beach and found a group of entertainers dancing with fire on the sand to techno music. We watched for a bit as they twirled fire and even hula’d flaming hoops and then left to find something for supper. We ate at a local chain on the corner (Outback Jack’s). We noticed quickly that service at restaurants in Australia is very different from the attentive service in New Zealand. When I asked our waitress what the local fish Barramundi tastes like, she said “fish”. As the manager walked by, a gruff old Aussie, she asked him what the Barramundi tastes like. He echoed her response, “Fish”, adding that it doesn’t taste like Salmon. I found out later that Barramundi fish primarily live in the rivers in Australia, but swim down to the sea to spawn. Another interesting fact is that they change sex from male to female during their lifespan and then can change back to either gender later in life. I wasn’t so impressed by the taste; it reminded me of big catfish. After dinner we wandered through the night market for a bit to browse souvenirs and then took a cab back to our resort to rest.

Saturday we slept in a bit. After getting ready and eating we chose to take an afternoon trip out to Green Island to get some snorkeling practice and swim. We found out that no one actually swims on the beaches in Cairnes, partially due to the crocodiles and jellyfish, but because Cairnes beaches aren’t pristine. Green Island is a small resort island along the reef that has a small rainforest area. The water was a beautiful clear blue-green and we immediately were able to spot interesting fish while walking up the dock to the main island. While walking to the changing rooms we spotted some interesting birds walking about and even saw a few chicks cuddling together. Mike and I rented or “hired” (as Aussies say) a couple of Lycra suits for jellyfish protection. The suits are terribly unattractive, but when it comes to enduring a painful sting from a deadly jellyfish (called “marine stingers” here) or looking goofy, we both chose to look goofy. It was Mike’s first time to snorkel so we went around the edge of the reef and weren’t able to get too deep. The variety wasn’t too great since we were primarily in shallow waters, but we did swim over an interesting flounder disguised as sand and some long skinny fish we haven’t yet identified. We used the 27 exposures from our disposable water-proof camera within the first 15 minutes. We only had a couple of hours on the island and the time flew. After we arrived back in town we wandered around the Esplanade some more. This time we walked over to get a closer look at the salt water lagoon pool directly on the beach and took more pictures. Later that night Mike and I went to swim at one of the pools at the resort. It was an interesting pool with sand at one end to seem more like an actual beach. While swimming we talked to a gent from Wales who had gone to one of the outer reefs that day and he told us how amazing the colors were of the reef and the fish. Luckily, we already had booked a tour for Monday with the same company he had taken, so we knew it was going to be a worthwhile.

Sunday we decided to explore some of Australia’s rainforest with a bit more care. The bush in New Zealand is quite different than Australia. We knew that while in New Zealand we weren’t dealing with the same level of threat of dangerous plants and wildlife, Australia’s bush can be quite dangerous even on a tour. Our morning began aboard the Kuranda scenic railway where we learned about the brave settlers who had used pick and shovel to carve the train tunnels through the mountains. Along the way we stopped and viewed the magnificent Barron Falls which are 329 meters above sea level and drop 265 meters. They have a power station beneath the falls and the power generated by the falls supplies most of Cairnes. At the top we reached Kuranda Village. It’s nestled in the rainforest where locals and aborigines have markets and shops. We wandered the shops and saw many interesting sites and artwork. While in there we visited a spot called Rainforest Station where we toured a wildlife park and then rode on an amphibious army duck vehicle in a brief loop through the rainforest. The wildlife park was small, but the kangaroos and wallabies were roaming free in the park and we both were able to approach and pet both. They were sleeping, so all appreciated a nice scratch between the ears. We also saw koalas, and Mike promised me that I would get to cuddle one in person when we go to Sydney Zoo. There were many beautiful butterflies flying around the park (some wild, some escapees from the butterfly zoo). One stunning blue one was named the Ulysses Butterfly. The ride through the rainforest was informative and we learned a lot about the different types of plants. By the end of the tour we were able to identify different types of basket ferns growing on the trees. They look like parasites, but are called epiphytes and not actually harmful to their hosts. We saw a few dangerous plants in route such as the Walking Stick Palm and the Stinging Tree. Our guide said that if stung by the Stinging Tree, the burning effect can last for up to 6 months. After the wildlife tours we rode the Skyrail over the rainforest canopy, returning to our awaiting bus. During our drive back to town I spotted several wild cockatoos in the trees near the highway. Later that night we rushed to the grocery store downtown before they closed to stock up on supplies to eat at our place. After dinner we rested up for planned reef trip the next day.

Monday we rose bright and early for our trip to the Outer Barrier Reef. We rode a bus from Cairnes all the way to Port Douglas to board the boat. Along the way we saw a group of wild wallabies hanging out in an open field and saw a saltwater crocodile (called “salties” by the locals) sunning himself on a river bank. The bus driver said that at the local golf courses the golfers know not to retrieve any balls lost in water holes because most likely they are inhabited by salties. Once in Port Douglas we boarded Quicksilver’s Wavepiercer to journey to the Agincourt ribbon reefs. Quicksilver has a large platform out on the reef where you can get out of the water to rest when needed. Mike and I got on our smurf Lycra suits as quick as possible upon docking at the platform because we were anxious to get into the water. The water at this spot was much deeper, so we were able to see a much wider variety of fish and corals. Thankfully, we rented an underwater digital camera so we had more opportunity to document the wonders of the reef. We only had 4 hours on the reef and the time flew, and we were not ready to leave when the ship blew the warning horn to depart. Sadly, Mike accidentally lost his wedding ring while we were snorkeling, but I guess there isn’t a cooler spot to lose your ring then on the Great Barrier Reef. He said now I am married to a lucky fish. Thankfully, he was wearing his less expensive ceramic ring, so finding a replacement won’t be difficult. As we made our way home we decided that we wanted to see more of the reef since this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, so we booked a trip for Tuesday aboard the Passions boat to a different area reef and Michaelmas Cay, a bird sanctuary. This was a smaller boat with fewer passengers, making the service much more personal. Once we arrived at our first destination we were offered the opportunity for a free scuba lesson with the option to continue the dive. We both decided that after snorkeling a couple of days on the reef we wanted the opportunity to see the reef up close and personal. After the intro and a couple of skills tests we were taken on a dive in guided small group with our instructor. During our dive we encounter friendly sea turtles that we both had the opportunity to feed. Also, were able to handle starfish and velvety sea cucumbers, and we even had a white tip reef shark swim directly underneath as we dove. It was an amazing day out and perfect way to experience the wonders of the reef. Both of us were thrilled to have our first scuba experience go so well, and now we’re hooked. After our reef trip both Mike and I were both sunburned despite sunscreen and had telling raccoon markings from our sunglasses. Today we departed Queensland and arrived in New South Wales to explore Sydney and its wonders. We only have a few days remaining for our exciting adventure and can’t wait to share more details when we return to the Northern hemisphere.

Cheers!
Laura & Mike

Windy Wellington

“Windy Wellington” is the capital of New Zealand and the cultural mecca of the area. There is a constant breeze from the south and they are known for ship wrecks in the area due to violent winds. Mike and I flew from Auckland to Wellington on the 17th. The Auckland domestic airport was an interesting experience. We arrived 2 hours early to the airport due to our knowledge of airport security checkpoints in the States. When we attempted to check our bag at 9:30 for our 11:20 flight, we were first sent away because we were too early and had to wait until 10:00. We waited around and browsed the shops and then went through the security point to wait at the terminal. Mike waited to get food because he assumed that taking food through security would be difficult, but once we got to the gate there wasn’t anywhere to eat. I exited the terminal and walked back into the main area to buy him some food. When I returned the security guard laughed when I told him I’d exited to buy food. He had me put it on the belt to run it through the x-ray machine and told me they’d “warm it up for me.” Their security lines were quick and easy, the way they used to be back home. We didn’t have to take off our shoes and belts or any of that other nonsense. As we waited at the terminal for our flight we were the only ones there until about 25 minutes before the flight left. Apparently, in NZ, nobody bothers to arrive at the airport until about 30 minutes before domestic flights. We’ve decided so far that we prefer airports in NZ.
Our FlatEarth tourguide picked us up from the airport, where he was literally parked outside the door. Talk about different from the States! He loaded our backs and we left the airport. Upon arrival into Wellington we checked into our bed and breakfast, a lovely spot with a spectacular view of the ocean called Villa Melina. After settling into our room we caught the trolley into town to wander. Wellington has a system of trolleys which are electric and the cables hang all along the streets throughout towns. We walked along the waterfront for awhile and then went into the national museum, Te Papa, which offers free admission. While in the museum we learned about the history of New Zealand and the Maori people, along with seeing the Colossal Squid. After the museum closed we wandered downtown along Courtney Place where everyone was out celebrating Saint Patrick’s Day. We caught the trolley home but were so exhausted from our busy day that we were dozing on the trolley. Luckily we stayed alert enough to get off the bus at the right time and made the short walk home.
Our first full day in Wellington we had scheduled an all-day wildlife tour. Our guide, Tony, picked us up from the Villa Melina and we rode to the top of Mt. Victoria to a fantastic view of the city. We then proceeded to a wildlife reserve area to meet our guide, Billy, for our off-road trip in a 4wd truck to see the New Zealand fur seals. The trip along the coast was bumpy and quite adventurous. As we made our way to view the seals we saw wild horses, mountain goats, birds, and even a baby blue penguin. We spent quite awhile watching the baby penguin as he shook his feathers attempting to dry off following his swim. Following a rough drive along a rocky beach we arrived at the spot where the fur seals hang out on the rocks. We were so close that one swam off because we were in his space. We spent some time watching the seals bask in the sun and then ventured back to continue our tour of Wellington. Billy dropped us back off with Tony, who took us on a bush walk at the Wilton Reserve in the middle of the city. During our walk Mike had a clumsy wood pigeon fly directly at his head, but was saved by his cat-like reflexes. We also heard the mesmerizing call of a Tui Tui bird. They have two voice boxes, and can use both simultaneously which makes a really amazing sound. Continuing on our tour we came to a penguin crossing sign at a spot along the coast highway. At night the penguins cross the road to nest behind the homes, and return to the ocean in the morning. Tracks in the sand made us wish we had one of those houses to watch the daily trek of penguins.
We also learned that Wellington has more than 400 cable privately owned cable cars in their city. Homes that are built on a rocky cliff without stairs or the ability to have a driveway have cable cars to lift them to their homes. Residents will have a garage at the bottom of the cliff to store their cars in, then hop into their cable car (a small open-top box) and ride to their houses along the cliffs.
After our tour we hurried to change for our dinner reservation at Citron, a small exclusive restaurant specializing in New Zealand cuisine. Our dinner was excellent with a friendly and knowledgeable wait staff who lead us through a nine-course gourment dinner accompanied by several excellent New Zealand wines. After getting a bit lost and caught in the rain, we grabbed a cab home where we promptly zonked out for the night.
The next morning following a delicious home-cooked breakfast at Villa Melina overlooking the sea, we were picked up by our guide, Jack, for our full-day Lord of the Rings’ locations tour. We took several bush walks in the city and saw the filming locations where they filmed the hobbits hiding from the ring wraiths and also running to get on the ferry. While in the forest we experimented with photos, learning more about perspective and how they made the tall actors playing hobbits seem small. We learned that on the first day of shooting the hobbits had to run up a hill for more than 30 takes. Sam, played by Sean Austin, had to gain 30 lbs for the role, ran the first few times but wasn’t running by the end. Jack pointed out that if you watch the first film, you’ll notice that in each shot Sam will be leaning on a tree as the other hobbits run past. Then somehow you’ll see him miraculously in front again, leaning on another tree, as the hobbits run by again. We then ran to the top of the hill, once, and all of us (including Jack) agreed that we would have been leaning on trees in the shots as well.
Next we ventured to see the “Auduin River” where they filmed showing both the fellowship departing on their journey and Aragorn being washed ashore. Around the road was the quarry where they filmed the battle of Helms deep. We ate a picnic lunch at the location where they filmed the elvish city of Lothorian. After lunch and a short drive we visited the location for Rivendell and the gardens of Isengard.
In addition to Lord of the Rings locations we saw the ship they used for King Kong and saw pictures where our guide was an extra standing behind Jack Black in the final scene. Our last stop on the tour was at the Weta Cave in “Wellywood” for a glimpse into the special effects behind the films shot at many of these locations. Mike was quite scared of the large Orc and I almost stole Gollum’s fish. That evening we rode the historic cable car to the top of the city and tramped about in Wellington’s gorgeous botanical gardens. We ate dinner downtown, had ice cream at the historical paramount theater, and then rode the trolley home to pack. Today we awoke at 4:30, grabbed a cab to the airport, and have just arrived in Australia. We’re taking advantage of our five hour layover in Brisbane to update our blog before we fly on to Cairns to see the Great Barrier Reef.
Sadly, while waiting to depart Wellington, we learned that Mike’s grandmother, Munner, passed away this past Sunday after we arrived in NZ. His family had not contacted us because they were afraid to spoil our trip. We are sad that we weren’t able to be there, be with everyone, and to attend her funeral today. Knowing how much she has suffered in the last year, we know that she is now at peace and in a much better place. Now we know that the healing process can begin for the family. We can’t help but believe that she’s been watching us on our travels.
Until our next post, love,
Laura and Mike

The City of Sails

Auckland is known as the City of Sails because Aucklanders claim to own more boats per capita than any other city in the world. The view of all the sailboats in the harbor was amazing. On our way to Auckland we crossed the international dateline and completely lost a day, though the day we lost was Friday the 13th, so we didn't mind much. Apparently on our way home we will regain the day, so it'll be just like Groundhog Day.

We arrived in Auckland just after 7am Sat morning after a 13 hour flight aboard New Zealand Air. Once in the city we freshened up and then headed out for brunch at a cafe overlooking Waitemata Harbor. As we dined we met two older couples, one from Auckland and the other from Australia. They were very pleasant and gave us many tips on what to see and do while in the area. After brunch we took the ferry over to Devonport, a quaint town across the bay with many local shops and places to explore. We began our trek there by hiking up Mt. Victoria, one of the many dormant volcanoes in the Auckland area. After enjoying the wonderful views we crossed the island to Cheltenham Beach where we witnessed locals playing a game of Cricket, a first for the both of us. Per tradition the players were all dressed in white.

Also on Cheltenham Beach we saw people windsurfing using kites. The view from the beach was wonderful and we could see Rangitoto island, one of the youngest volcanoes, in the distance. We explored the beach and walked across some volcanic rock. Once we climbed around the edge of a cliff and came to a dead end, but while deciding how to proceed were passed by a group of college students. We decided to follow them through an old tunnel into the cliffside which eventually exited us at the top of the cliff. We discovered the group had Californians who were studying abroad in Auckland. The tunnel was constructed during WW II along with an interesting netting system to catch submarines.

Next, Mike and I trekked back to town and had an afternoon snack and some local New Zealand wine and a half pint of Guiness at a Pub. We then took the ferry back to
Auckland. Later that night we freshened up and ate dinner back in Auckland at a posh gourmet restaurant in the Viaduct area called S'oul.

Sunday morning Mike and I explored and did a bit of shopping enjoying the currency exchange rate in our favor. After lunch we climbed aboard that Explore NZ boat for a whale and dolphin safari on the Hauraki Gulf. On our way out in search of dolphins we saw many birds including gannets and gulls. Occasionally we spotted tiny blue penguins beside the boat and swimming in the ocean. The view aboard the ship was spectacular and on the return leg of the cruise we finally came upon a pod of common dolphins who gave us a show by swimming and jumping in front of the ship. They were amazing and beautiful, and we watched them play, swim and leap from the water for about thirty minutes before setting our sides on the shore. We met a nice couple who were backpacking from England and a couple of local Auckland kids who were aboard the ship. Upon arriving home we trekked back to our hotel to freshen up for dinner. Around 9:00 we tried to find somewhere to dine and discovered that many places in Auckland don't serve that late on a Sunday night. We finally found a quaint Italian restaurant for dinner.

This morning we woke and went on an Eco tour to the Waitakere Ranges regional park. We hiked through a native temperate rainforest and learned about the local flora and fauna. We saw Tea trees, huge Kauri trees, and silver leaf ferns. We hiked up narrow paths to a breathtaking waterfall which we viewed from the bottom and eventually hiked and sat on the top. The waterfalls were called Kitekite Falls and we watched a group of adventurers repelling down the side of the falls. At the top we were able to drink fresh water from the stream. After we hiked out of the forest we traveled to nearby Piha beach with black sand and an amazing view. They call the massive rock there Lion Rock because from the beach it resembles a large lion facing out to sea. Piha beach faces the Tasman Sea which eventually leads to Australia. They said on a clear day you can view the Sydney Harbor Bridge from Piha and depending on how strong the current is they have had dead snakes was ashore from Australia which they bag up and ship back (New Zealand is proudly snake free).

For our final night in the Auckland we had dinner in the revolving restaurant at the top of the Sky Tower, Orbit, to enjoy the view of the city. We had an amazing time in Auckland and our only regret so far is not having enough time to see everything. Tomorrow we fly to Wellington for more adventures. Enjoying the Southern Hemisphere, Laura & Mike