“Windy Wellington” is the capital of New Zealand and the cultural mecca of the area. There is a constant breeze from the south and they are known for ship wrecks in the area due to violent winds. Mike and I flew from Auckland to Wellington on the 17th. The Auckland domestic airport was an interesting experience. We arrived 2 hours early to the airport due to our knowledge of airport security checkpoints in the States. When we attempted to check our bag at 9:30 for our 11:20 flight, we were first sent away because we were too early and had to wait until 10:00. We waited around and browsed the shops and then went through the security point to wait at the terminal. Mike waited to get food because he assumed that taking food through security would be difficult, but once we got to the gate there wasn’t anywhere to eat. I exited the terminal and walked back into the main area to buy him some food. When I returned the security guard laughed when I told him I’d exited to buy food. He had me put it on the belt to run it through the x-ray machine and told me they’d “warm it up for me.” Their security lines were quick and easy, the way they used to be back home. We didn’t have to take off our shoes and belts or any of that other nonsense. As we waited at the terminal for our flight we were the only ones there until about 25 minutes before the flight left. Apparently, in NZ, nobody bothers to arrive at the airport until about 30 minutes before domestic flights. We’ve decided so far that we prefer airports in NZ.
Our FlatEarth tourguide picked us up from the airport, where he was literally parked outside the door. Talk about different from the States! He loaded our backs and we left the airport. Upon arrival into Wellington we checked into our bed and breakfast, a lovely spot with a spectacular view of the ocean called Villa Melina. After settling into our room we caught the trolley into town to wander. Wellington has a system of trolleys which are electric and the cables hang all along the streets throughout towns. We walked along the waterfront for awhile and then went into the national museum, Te Papa, which offers free admission. While in the museum we learned about the history of New Zealand and the Maori people, along with seeing the Colossal Squid. After the museum closed we wandered downtown along Courtney Place where everyone was out celebrating Saint Patrick’s Day. We caught the trolley home but were so exhausted from our busy day that we were dozing on the trolley. Luckily we stayed alert enough to get off the bus at the right time and made the short walk home.
Our first full day in Wellington we had scheduled an all-day wildlife tour. Our guide, Tony, picked us up from the Villa Melina and we rode to the top of Mt. Victoria to a fantastic view of the city. We then proceeded to a wildlife reserve area to meet our guide, Billy, for our off-road trip in a 4wd truck to see the New Zealand fur seals. The trip along the coast was bumpy and quite adventurous. As we made our way to view the seals we saw wild horses, mountain goats, birds, and even a baby blue penguin. We spent quite awhile watching the baby penguin as he shook his feathers attempting to dry off following his swim. Following a rough drive along a rocky beach we arrived at the spot where the fur seals hang out on the rocks. We were so close that one swam off because we were in his space. We spent some time watching the seals bask in the sun and then ventured back to continue our tour of Wellington. Billy dropped us back off with Tony, who took us on a bush walk at the Wilton Reserve in the middle of the city. During our walk Mike had a clumsy wood pigeon fly directly at his head, but was saved by his cat-like reflexes. We also heard the mesmerizing call of a Tui Tui bird. They have two voice boxes, and can use both simultaneously which makes a really amazing sound. Continuing on our tour we came to a penguin crossing sign at a spot along the coast highway. At night the penguins cross the road to nest behind the homes, and return to the ocean in the morning. Tracks in the sand made us wish we had one of those houses to watch the daily trek of penguins.
We also learned that Wellington has more than 400 cable privately owned cable cars in their city. Homes that are built on a rocky cliff without stairs or the ability to have a driveway have cable cars to lift them to their homes. Residents will have a garage at the bottom of the cliff to store their cars in, then hop into their cable car (a small open-top box) and ride to their houses along the cliffs.
After our tour we hurried to change for our dinner reservation at Citron, a small exclusive restaurant specializing in New Zealand cuisine. Our dinner was excellent with a friendly and knowledgeable wait staff who lead us through a nine-course gourment dinner accompanied by several excellent New Zealand wines. After getting a bit lost and caught in the rain, we grabbed a cab home where we promptly zonked out for the night.
The next morning following a delicious home-cooked breakfast at Villa Melina overlooking the sea, we were picked up by our guide, Jack, for our full-day Lord of the Rings’ locations tour. We took several bush walks in the city and saw the filming locations where they filmed the hobbits hiding from the ring wraiths and also running to get on the ferry. While in the forest we experimented with photos, learning more about perspective and how they made the tall actors playing hobbits seem small. We learned that on the first day of shooting the hobbits had to run up a hill for more than 30 takes. Sam, played by Sean Austin, had to gain 30 lbs for the role, ran the first few times but wasn’t running by the end. Jack pointed out that if you watch the first film, you’ll notice that in each shot Sam will be leaning on a tree as the other hobbits run past. Then somehow you’ll see him miraculously in front again, leaning on another tree, as the hobbits run by again. We then ran to the top of the hill, once, and all of us (including Jack) agreed that we would have been leaning on trees in the shots as well.
Next we ventured to see the “Auduin River” where they filmed showing both the fellowship departing on their journey and Aragorn being washed ashore. Around the road was the quarry where they filmed the battle of Helms deep. We ate a picnic lunch at the location where they filmed the elvish city of Lothorian. After lunch and a short drive we visited the location for Rivendell and the gardens of Isengard.
In addition to Lord of the Rings locations we saw the ship they used for King Kong and saw pictures where our guide was an extra standing behind Jack Black in the final scene. Our last stop on the tour was at the Weta Cave in “Wellywood” for a glimpse into the special effects behind the films shot at many of these locations. Mike was quite scared of the large Orc and I almost stole Gollum’s fish. That evening we rode the historic cable car to the top of the city and tramped about in Wellington’s gorgeous botanical gardens. We ate dinner downtown, had ice cream at the historical paramount theater, and then rode the trolley home to pack. Today we awoke at 4:30, grabbed a cab to the airport, and have just arrived in Australia. We’re taking advantage of our five hour layover in Brisbane to update our blog before we fly on to Cairns to see the Great Barrier Reef.
Sadly, while waiting to depart Wellington, we learned that Mike’s grandmother, Munner, passed away this past Sunday after we arrived in NZ. His family had not contacted us because they were afraid to spoil our trip. We are sad that we weren’t able to be there, be with everyone, and to attend her funeral today. Knowing how much she has suffered in the last year, we know that she is now at peace and in a much better place. Now we know that the healing process can begin for the family. We can’t help but believe that she’s been watching us on our travels.
Until our next post, love,
Laura and Mike
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